⚬ But first, what's métiers d'Art?
Is the pre-fall collection presented by Chanel, which happens every December, since 2002. Usually is set outside of France, this year, due to the pandemic, happened in the Loire Valley- don't worry, we'll talk about the location later.
The métiers d'Art is a homage to all the artesian that the Maison started to work in 1984. The intuitive of the collection is to preserve and celebrate the expertise of the luxury crafts of the fashion world.
The collection is a midterm between prêt-à-porter (in English, Ready-to-Wear) and haute couture. Unlike couture, the pieces are not made to measure. But the ornamentation, details, and skills behind the clothes keep the same couture techniques
The ateliers are a huge part of the Maison; they produce from buttons and feathers to shoes and hats. One of the most famous is the Maison Lesage, which is an expert in embroidery and worked with huge designers like Elsa Schiaparelli.
In 1997, Chanel established the Paraffection-In English, with love- which is a Chanel subsidiary that contains all the ateliers brought by the Chanel group. They remain independent, which means they're free to work with other Maison. Today, 12 ateliers belong to the group.
The collection is a midterm between prêt-à-porter (in English, Ready-to-Wear) and haute couture. Unlike couture, the clothes are not made to measure- but the ornamentation, details, and skills behind the clothes keep the same couture techniques
The late Karl Lagerfeld, who created the métiers D'art, inspired the whole industry in creating pre-collection, which is a model followed by all huge brands today.
As I said previously, the collection always happens in a special location, usually set outside of France, and we can see all the traditions of the chosen place on the pieces.
An example: The Paris-Hamburg collection happened in Karl's hometown, in Germany. The city is famous for its signature architecture and the maritime past. We clearly can see all those little details on the pieces
⚬ Métiers d'Art 2021:
The show happened in the hall of the Château de Chenonceau, a 16th-century construction in the Loire Valley. The château is also known as the Château des Dames, a place that has a history marked by strong women who lived during the renaissance and the enlightenment
With this in mind, we already know what Virginie would focus on her second métiers d'Art collection: Recreating what powerful woman of that time, to be more specific, what Caterina di Medici -who once owned the exactly same Château- would wear today
The Coco Chanel inspiration is also clear in the collection. One of the most powerful women of her time, she also influenced the culture, the art, and the politics of her era. Exactly like the powerful woman of the renaissance and the enlightenment
The show was supposed to have 200 guests. But, due to the second wave of Covid-19 emerging in Europe, the presential show was canceled- except for one spectator: Kristen Stewart, one of the muses of the late Karl Lagerfeld and, consequently, one of many faces of Chanel.
Is important to mention she will be on the pre-fall campaign. After years of work and partnership with the Maison, this is actually the first time she'll be in a clothing campaign- we've already seen her on eyewear and beauty.
The first reference we see is obvious- even for those who don't know anything about the history of the Château. The black and white checkered marble floor, that we see in Château's galleries and halls are present in the skirts and dresses, which gained a glowy finish and a touch of embroidery.
The color combination, Coco Chanel's favorite one, is the foundation of the collection. Also a reference for Caterina: When her husband, King Henri II, dies, she adopts the black color to show her grief- eventually broken by a white detail, also present in the collection.
No wonder why Virginie, who always showcases her minimalist style, presented herself all in black, except for her white boots. Another reference to the powerful women who inspired the collection
The red ink, centuries ago, was the most expensive ink, which was only found in lands far from Europe, like India or Brazil. For this reason, red became the color of the royalty, of the richest, and of the powerful.
We also see a reference in the flowers pattern, inspired by the marvelous tapestries of that time
And we all see the Chateau on the belts, showing an important part of the Metiers d'Art: The perfection is on the details!
And the most important characteristic of all Métier d'Art collection, the shine is present everywhere: From the shoes to the hair accessories, going through belts, bags, jewelry, and embroidery
Since we're talking about Chanel, is impossible to mention the biggest Chanel feature: The tweed. Obviously, the fabric was present in many pieces, gained a different cut, like a hollow side and a shoulder to shoulder necklin3
We also see a huge 80's reference in the pieces, a reference to when Karl Lagerfeld started to work in the Maison. Including many aspects of the decade, like mini skirts and mini shorts, shinning leggings, a structured shoulder cut and a disco floor: black and white.
My favorite moment of the entire show was when I saw the Hennin: Hennin is a headdress, usually shaped as a cone, used by the nobility and royalty around the 15th and 16th century.
The piece made me travel in time to when I was a kid and was completely crazy about the sleeping beauty story, which story is also set in the 16th century.
But you're wrong if you think the collection is only an ode to de past. Of modern aspects, we see crop tops, hot pants, fluid fabrics, transparency, denim, and the very loved ( or very hated) mini bag
If you, just like me, loves the métiers d'Art shows and collection, I highly suggest reading this article! And if you want to see all looks with more details, the Chanel website has a special page about the collection.
For me, Chanel is a brand made by the details. By their essence and philosophy. I would be lying if I say I loved this collection. Or if I say I would buy every piece. But all the history they put in every collection is what made me love their shows.
The amount of study, work, caring, and love they put in every detail is what made me fall in love. Their inspiration, their location, their atmosphere... Is an ode to fashion and a huge homage for those who spend their life studying about it.
In my humble opinion, fashion is not about seeing a piece of fabric and deciding if that's pretty or not. Or if I would wear this or not. Fashion is essence, is study, is passion, is details, is philosophy. Anyone on earth can make pretty clothes. But not everyone can tell stories through them.
The real fashion is not about looks: Is about imagination. This is something Karl never failed in showing us. And, for a long time, I thought Virginie was not able to replicate the incredible feelings that Karl provide.
Until now, I was completely discredited by her. But this collection changes her a little bit into my own eyes. I'm excited to see if she will be able to keep this in her next collection.
But by now, all I can say this collection made me fall in love with fashion a little bit more. Made me believe that everything we experiment as human become history and, in this path, becomes art. Art. Just like this collection
Thank you so much for reading!!
